The other side of Nassau

Tuesday was one of the best days I've had on my Walkabout. I've had some great times so far, to be sure, but this past Tuesday was special. My Aunt and Uncle spend their winters on a sailboat in the Bahamas and this past week we were able to meet up. They have been wintering down here for 12 years now and know the area quite well. They were able to show me a completely different side of Nassau than I was used to.

I guess I'm used to the "tourist" side of Nassau. Hustle and bustle. Shops, trinkets, souvenirs, and pushy street vendors. When cruise ships come into town you have a lot of passengers who are looking to spend money in the port area. I'm not necessarily looking to do that, but, I get treated as if I am. I don't blame the locals at all. I assume that a large part of the economy depends on tourist business. It's nice to have the opportunity to get behind the scenes with experienced guides.

I met up with Fran and Mort at 9:30 am Tuesday. They came over to the dock by the ship in their dinghy to pick me up. The dinghy (sometimes known as a tender, but, I like the word dinghy better) is basically an inflatable raft with a small outboard mounted on the back. Perfect for jetting around calm ports and marinas. Unfortunately, the Nassau port is anything but calm. Due to the concrete docks on either side, the waves ricochet back and forth and the water is typically quite choppy. Not a big deal for a cruise ship, but, it makes for a bumpy dinghy ride. I quickly became familiar with "dinghy butt" a condition where the ass of your pants gets soaked from the waves splashing up underneath where you sit.

We immediately went off the beaten path. Crossing over to the opposite side from Nassau to Paradise Island we stopped first at a Yoga Retreat. There is much more to this place than first meets the eye. I didn't even see the dock until we were right up next to it. After we tied off the dinghy we walked back into the lush Bahamian wilderness (palm trees and more palm trees). It was exactly the opposite of what I'd been accustomed to any other time I've gotten off the ship. Quiet. Shady. Calm. No sales people of any kind. As we walked around the area it became clear to me that this was not just a small clearing on the sand for people to put down yoga mats. Rather, this was a full scale resort for people to enjoy an alternative vacation. Small and understated cabins with small apartments are available for rent. Shared bathrooms, community food (2 meals per day, vegetarian only) and some low key activities for kids (art, board games, crafts, etc) are all provided. There are several yoga classes offered per day and a beach that was almost completely deserted. Very private. Very alternative. A stark contrast to the monstrous Atlantis resort property next door. 

Speaking of Atlantis, that's the next place we visited. The polar opposite to the Yoga Retreat, Atlantis offers everything you could want in a modern resort vacation. Seemingly modeled after the humongous resorts in Las Vegas, Atlantis offers almost any kind of modern amenity one might desire including: numerous pools, a huge casino, movie theater, restaurants, a gigantic beach with shimmering light blue water, jet ski excursions, parasailing, paddleboat rental, snorkeling, scuba excursions, dolphin encounters, an aquarium, water park (complete with water slide tubes that go through live shark tanks, and so much more I can't remember to mention here. It's truly an amazing monument to modern convenience on vacation. Unbelievably awesome for completely different reasons than the Yoga Retreat. I like them both.

On our way into Atlantis through the marina access we came across some friends of Fran and Mort's from Saugatuck, Michigan. This retired couple also sail in the Bahamas during the winter and were renting a spot in the Atlantis marina for a few days. Normally, marina slips cost roughly $1/foot per day. Atlantis charges $4.50/foot per day. Everything costs more there…just like Vegas. Anyway, it was really cool to see people from Michigan in the Bahamas. Small world.

After our Atlantis visit, we went back to the Alato (my relative's sailboat) for a little rest in the shade. The Alato is only 34' in length, but, is a sturdy ship built in 1988 (I think I remember that right). Built with plywood by the original owner, Alato weighs a total of 7,000 pounds. This is not a large boat. There are still times when I feel a little uncomfortable in the middle of the ocean even on a huge cruise ship like the Majesty. I can't wrap my brain around being relaxed on a 34 footer bobbing up and down. But, as Fran puts it, "Once the water is deep enough to be over your head, it really doesn't matter where you are." That works for them. The jury is still out for me.

Fran and Mort live comfortably and frugally. The purchase very little outside of fresh vegetables and fruit from the locals and catch fish and other sea food for most meals. Mort was shopping for some new fishing tackle as the others had been lost earlier in the week and Fran informed me that fishing tournaments are huge in the Bahamas. People come from Florida all summer long to compete and haul enormous fish out of the ocean. Mort's line is only 100 pound test. Anything bigger than 100 pounds and I assume he would prefer to spear it rather than try to haul it in on fishing line. I love the idea of these two snorkeling and spearing fish for dinner all winter long. So cool.

While shopping for fishing tackle, Fran showed me some other toys that people enjoy in the Bahamas including a stand up paddle board. Fran has one of these already on the Alato and enjoys paddling around on calm days. Even better, she enjoys being pulled behind Mort in the dinghy pretending to surf. She says it's "kinda fun."

Our day finished up with a walk into "old" Nassau. We grabbed a table and had a couple of beers at a local bed and breakfast that has been around since Nassau declared independence from Great Britain in 1973 (I think that date is right). We exchanged laughs, stories and they were kind enough to lend a sympathetic ear to my trials and tribulations of late which are, in large part, responsible for my Walkabout in the first place. All in all it was an amazing day spent with my family. I really appreciate the opportunity I had to spend time with them and to get a sneak peek into their life at sea. As Mort says, "It's just living. We just happen to live on a boat."

Enjoy the pictures. They don't come even CLOSE to doing the scenery justice, but, it's the best I can do.

Beach yoga platform.

Yoga retreat beach (Atlantis in background)

Yoga beach...wow, just wow...

Garden at the Yoga Retreat

Popular photo spot at Atlantis

Fran and Mort. 

One of many HUGE yachts in the Atlantis marina. 

Middle of second deck you can see a bit of the "runabout"

boat that launches from the yacht. 32' Riva speedboat. That

gives you an idea of the relative size of this yacht!

Friends from Michigan.

Posing in Atlantis.

Atlantis beach is somewhat busy. This particular

beach seems to stretch for miles.

The fam.

Fran and Morts trimaran.

My transportation for the day. Dinghy butt!

Beers at the B+B.